-Jeremy Bentham
Today in Dublin it was fittingly gray for my visit to the Kilmainham Gaol just outside of Dublin's city center. The jail opened in 1796, partially organized by the philosopher Jeremy Bentham who helped reform the jail system essentially based on fear. I forget the exact term for the architectural design, but the jail was created so that inmates always felt as if they were being observed, you'll see how they achieved this below. (Remember when John Locke on LOST used the alias Jeremy Bentham?!)
The gaol closed in 1924 and much later was refurbished and opened as a museum. In a little over 100 years, Kilmainham housed pretty much every major political prisoner in Irish history, including the leaders of the Easter Rising.
If you want to learn anything about Irish history, the formation of the free state, this is the place to go. It was an informative, eerie, and very somber experience.
Before the tour we explored a three floor museum devoted to the history of the building and some of its famous inmates.
Keeping those radicals on lock-down.
This is the "Roll of Honor" from the IRA in the mid 1920s. Basically the tapestry has all the names of those that died or were currently serving with the radicals. I like that one of the pictures literally shows a glorious rebel throwing a bomb at a car. History tends to repeat itself...often.
These badges and arm bands were added to the IRA uniforms of those who assisted in the 1916 Easter Rising, those who managed to avoid Kilmainham that is.
IRA gear: protective padding, camera, telescope, machine gun, you know just the basics.
Into the prison! One of the more solitary hallways were political prisoners were watched very, very closely. Literally, there were peepholes in the doors and carpets so the inmates couldn't hear the guards sneaking to the cell.
Found this scratched on the inside of a cell. Most likely a tourist making their mark but it does make one wonder...
Just to give you an idea of how nice and big they built these cells.
See? Roomy!
The East wind of Kilmainham gaol. Beautiful architecture despite the fact that it was a hell hole to live in. The guards would stand on the center platforms and could see into pretty much all the cells in this large, circular room. The tour guide commented that this is how many shopping malls and hotels are still built today. The films In the Name of the Father and The Italian Job were both filmed in here, along with a few others I haven't heard of.
Here is the stone cutting yard where the 1916 conspirators were one-by-one shot. James Connolly was too sick to be held at Kilmainham, but the ambulance brought him here to be executed. They delayed the firing squad until they could find a chair to tie him to because he was too weak to stand. Charming.
This painting of the Madonna and Child was painted by Grace Gifford on the wall of her prison cell. She was the wife of 1916 conspirator Joseph Plunkett, she married him in the prison chapel about 10 minutes before he was taken out to the firing squad.
Needless to say a pretty intense experience.
On a lighter note...
I'm amazed at the amount of butcher shops in Dublin! Abby and I walked down Meath street today and there are literally six butcher shops! The lads that work in this one always seem particularly cheery. I picked up a fresh loaf of soda bread (still warm) from the bakery on Meath for only a 1.50 euro. Cheaper than a french fry from McDonalds!
Tomorrow exploring Howth, more pictures sure to follow.
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