Day 52: Locked Up

The question is not, "Can they reason?" nor, "Can they talk?" but rather, "Can they suffer?"
-Jeremy Bentham

Today in Dublin it was fittingly gray for my visit to the Kilmainham Gaol just outside of Dublin's city center. The jail opened in 1796, partially organized by the philosopher Jeremy Bentham who helped reform the jail system essentially based on fear. I forget the exact term for the architectural design, but the jail was created so that inmates always felt as if they were being observed, you'll see how they achieved this below. (Remember when John Locke on LOST used the alias Jeremy Bentham?!)

The gaol closed in 1924 and much later was refurbished and opened as a museum. In a little over 100 years, Kilmainham housed pretty much every major political prisoner in Irish history, including the leaders of the Easter Rising.

If you want to learn anything about Irish history, the formation of the free state, this is the place to go. It was an informative, eerie, and very somber experience.

Before the tour we explored a three floor museum devoted to the history of the building and some of its famous inmates.


Keeping those radicals on lock-down.


This is the "Roll of Honor" from the IRA in the mid 1920s. Basically the tapestry has all the names of those that died or were currently serving with the radicals. I like that one of the pictures literally shows a glorious rebel throwing a bomb at a car. History tends to repeat itself...often.


These badges and arm bands were added to the IRA uniforms of those who assisted in the 1916 Easter Rising, those who managed to avoid Kilmainham that is.


IRA gear: protective padding, camera, telescope, machine gun, you know just the basics.


Into the prison! One of the more solitary hallways were political prisoners were watched very, very closely. Literally, there were peepholes in the doors and carpets so the inmates couldn't hear the guards sneaking to the cell.


Found this scratched on the inside of a cell. Most likely a tourist making their mark but it does make one wonder...


Just to give you an idea of how nice and big they built these cells.


See? Roomy!


The East wind of Kilmainham gaol. Beautiful architecture despite the fact that it was a hell hole to live in. The guards would stand on the center platforms and could see into pretty much all the cells in this large, circular room. The tour guide commented that this is how many shopping malls and hotels are still built today. The films In the Name of the Father and The Italian Job were both filmed in here, along with a few others I haven't heard of.


Here is the stone cutting yard where the 1916 conspirators were one-by-one shot. James Connolly was too sick to be held at Kilmainham, but the ambulance brought him here to be executed. They delayed the firing squad until they could find a chair to tie him to because he was too weak to stand. Charming.


This painting of the Madonna and Child was painted by Grace Gifford on the wall of her prison cell. She was the wife of 1916 conspirator Joseph Plunkett, she married him in the prison chapel about 10 minutes before he was taken out to the firing squad.

Needless to say a pretty intense experience.

On a lighter note...

I'm amazed at the amount of butcher shops in Dublin! Abby and I walked down Meath street today and there are literally six butcher shops! The lads that work in this one always seem particularly cheery. I picked up a fresh loaf of soda bread (still warm) from the bakery on Meath for only a 1.50 euro. Cheaper than a french fry from McDonalds!

Tomorrow exploring Howth, more pictures sure to follow.

Day 46: My Goodness!

Between you and me, a few pints of Guinness and I can go even faster, you know.
-Michael Flatley

So yesterday Abby and I ventured West to the mythical Guinness Storehouse. Even though it's the number one tourist attraction in Dublin, it was at the bottom of my list because I personally can't stand drinking it. However, Abby got free tickets from work so we decided to see what all the fuss was about.


Negative right from the start.


Basically this is beer Disneyland. The whole thing is all flashy lights and effects. I guess it's necessary since the actual explanation of the manufacturing process is rather dull. It was super crowded so we didn't stop and take in every single sign, exhibit, etc.


Abby looks thrilled. Here we are at the Gravity Bar, the top of the Guinness factory where you get a complimentary pint and a 360 degree view of the city. The view was definitely cool and we thankfully had a nice day.




Not so bad...right?
It's not that I don't want to like it guys, maybe it's the Greek in me resisting.


The windows of the bar were covered in quotes from James Joyce's bibliography. The quotes matched up to the area of Dublin that the window faced, pretty cool.


Tiny bit o' sun.


And, on a completely unrelated note I present to you Jedward! Twin brothers John and Edward from Dublin are basically the substitute Jonas Brothers over here. I found out about them a few days ago when they were making an appearance at a record store by my apartment and 12 year old girls were flooding the street. The most hilarious part? Their first single was Ice Ice Baby, Vanilla Ice even collaborated with them. God help us.

Day 44: Pillage and Plunder!

Be your friend's true friend.
Return gift for gift.
Repay laughter with laughter again but betrayal with treachery.

- The Havamal, Book of Viking Wisdom

Self-led tourism again! This time it was around Viking/Medieval Dublin, but I opted out of the Viking museum/Christ Church tour for a time when my roommate Abby can go with me. I woke up this morning feeling a little lethargic, so I tried to get out of the apartment before I convince myself otherwise.


Merrion again! I love this park and its so close to my apartment. It's open until 6pm now, last night Abby and I walked a few laps around it before dinner. In July it stays open until 9:30pm, I heard that it stays light in Ireland until 10pm in the summer months. I hope it wasn't just the locals playing on my gullibility.


This building still stands from the Medieval city and once housed Sunlight soap manufacturing. The engravings show men dirtying clothes and then women cleaning the garments. Typical. The engravings were also used as an advertisement for soap, since it wasn't necessarily a basic household item in Medieval Dublin.


This is the oldest house in Dublin on the oldest street, Fishamble. Parts of the house date from (I think) the 17th century. Also the house has been passed down in the same family for over 250 years.


Christ's Church Cathedral, a Viking settlment site before taken by the church.


The interior of St. Francis'/ Adam and Eve Church. Because it's a Franciscan friary it was simply named St. Francis originally, but the only Church entrance was through Adam and Eve's pub. The pub name stuck.


The Brazen Head, the oldest Pub in Dublin! I don't know if you can read the sign, but it says established 1198! That's history! The man standing in front seems irritated that I'm taking this photo.


This statue is of Handel and is located in the courtyard of an apartment complex. Originally this was the site of a concert hall and was where Handel's Messiah was performed for the first time ever!


Four Courts. Thank goodness for sunshine.

More touristy things planned this weekend! For now drinking some tea and watching Yankee TV.

Day 43: motivated tourist

To love oneself is the beginning of a life-long romance.
- Oscar Wilde

Indulging in my Thursday morning routine of watching Veronica Mars and drinking tea. Similar to my almost every night routine of watching Scrubs and drinking tea. Basically, when I'm watching TV, I don't even feel like I'm Ireland. As the commercials say "Those Yanks sure know how to make us laugh!"

Last night went to Captain America's, Ireland's response to Hard Rock Cafe. I went with my roommate Abby and my friend from Missouri Christina and her boyfriend who's on leave from the Army met us there. We sat next to a picture that Bono took in Africa. I'm not saying I'm a photography expert, but assuming he had a pretty nice camera I wasn't impressed.

It was karaoke night, lots of songs that we didn't know that sounded like the UK/Ireland equivalent to "Build Me Up Buttercup." They also sang a lot of songs from Grease and Oasis.

Last Friday I went on a little self-led tour of Dublin's fair city, thanks to these Ipod tours that the Dublin tourism office offers on their web site. I think I might do another one tomorrow morning, it's a good way to be productive when flying solo.



This is the interior of the Dublin court house, I opted to just snap a couple photos in the entrance rather than pay for the 3 euro tour.



The courtyard of Dublin castle. When I walked into the open space there was no one there and it kind of freaked me out. So, I decided to sit on a bench until someone walked into the courtyard. I think I was eerily alone there for like 10 minutes, where are all the other tourists?



View of Dublin castle from the "black pool" garden.



Here is the gatehouse overlooking the garden. This garden is apparently the origin of Dublin's name. Now its inlaid with snakes in a celtic knot, but originally it was just a basin of earth. When the Vikings came over they were based in this area and noticed that because it rained all the time this spot was a constant "black pool." I guess Dublin comes from the viking word for "black pool." Fun facts.



St. Patrick's Cathedral



This kind of cracks me up. It's a sign that's supposed to mark a well where St. Patrick baptized people. There's another sign next to it that basically says there's not enough proof, but there is an old well here! This spot is right next to St. Patrick's Cathedral in the church's garden which the Guinness family commissioned.

Class today and then some kicking back!

Day 41: Messages from Home

Home is a name, a word, it is a strong one; stronger than magician ever spoke, or spirit ever answered to, in the strongest conjuration. ~Charles Dickens

Just got back from the package center in Dublin 2 with my Valentine's Day care package from home! It felt like my bday or Halloween, it was quite the cornucopia of treats (make sure you tell Dan I used cornucopia).

I loved the cards that Maura and Shannon made! They're next to my bed with the Valentine's from the Grandma's now! You guys are so talented.



Motherload! The bounty included cowtails, pistachios, m&ms, twizzlers, salad dressing mixes, combos, and more that I can't remember. I've been chowing down on the pistachios all day. I'm sure they sell them here, but I haven't seen them yet.

The best part though?



Wow, I can't believe I just ate an actual Skippy pbj sandwich! It made me realize that Panda butter really is a poor substitute. I'm going to have to ration out the Skippy though, I could totally just eat the whole jar with a spoon. To say that I like peanut butter more than some people I know would be an under-exaggeration.

Anyways...

Every once in a while I'll try to post some pictures from around Dublin. It will keep me snapping, I forget to take pictures because I live here.

One of my favorite spots in the city is Merrion Square, it's like St. Stephen's Green except more overgrown and less open. I hear that they have a huge party in Merrion on St. Patrick's Day so I'm already jazzed for that. In one corner of the park is one of my buds.



Oscar it's been too long since we hung out and did that 12 page paper before Thanksgiving...remember the good times?




I feel like the sculpter did a terrific job on his pose, his facial expression, it's just fantastic. There are lots of little tributes to the Irish writers throughout the city, especially Joyce. There are plaques in the street at locations that make an appearance in Ulysses.

Class and then dinner at Norah's! Another sunny day in the Dub!

Day 40: Great Craic in Cork

“Baloney is the unvarnished lie laid on so thick you hate it. Blarney is flattery laid on so thin you love it.”
-Fulton J. Sheen

First off I'm really excited that Uncle Tom & Aunt Christy and Uncle Dan found the blog! Hopefully the Blarney stone worked and I can continuously lure you in with entertaining banter.

On Friday night at about midnight my roommate Abby and my friend Sarah convinced me to go to Cork the next morning at 8am! I'm not a huge fan of spontaneity, so I had to do a lot of self convincing. I'm so happy I went! The weather was stupidly nice, temperatures in the 50s all weekend. I'm embarrassed to say I got sunburned yesterday...in Ireland...in February.

We stayed at a hostel in Cork which was clean and had free breakfast, so infinitely better than about 75% of hostels in Europe. On Saturday we took a bus out to Blarney and yesterday we spent the day in the peninsula town of Kinsale, absolutely beautiful!

Thankfully I don't have to convince you too much, the pictures speak for themselves.


Heading to Blarney castle, so sunny!


On the grounds of Blarney, I was actually hot it was so warm out.


I feel like Blarney castle could easily be replicated for a Universal Studios attraction. Because it was so touristy, there was almost a theme park vibe.


In the dungeon! I've seen worse accommodations in Brooklyn.


The catch phrase for Blarney Castle was "terrifying." This most especially applies to the winding staircase. Don't worry, there's a rope.


Beautiful! Fantastic view of Blarney grounds and lots of sunshine.


I was pretty nervous about the actual kissing, but I couldn't chicken out or lie! Everyone wants photographic proof, and I promise you this isn't photoshoped! Also, the Blarney stone guy: strange job or the strangest job?


Blarney gardens! There were all these signs around about fairies and witches which was pretty hokey, but I enjoyed the waterfalls!


I wanted to recreate an episode of LOST or possibly Jurassic Park when we got to the heavily wooded part of Blarney. Maybe even Lord of the Rings...





Cork! It's the second largest city in Ireland but still probably smaller than Warren! Much more relaxed than Dublin and everyone was super welcoming!


Obviously we went to a Mexican restaurant in Cork. Not too bad, especially the Sangria, but you can definitely get better (and cheaper) Mexican on 422 at El Rodeo!


Streets of Cork


Kinsale is so much like Florida! Colorful and filled with old people!


Kinsale bay, reminded me a lot of New England.


Day trip to the tropics! I can almost see myself getting sunburned in this one.


Then we boarded Captain Hook's ship and snapped a couple photos.


What blog post would be complete without a food picture? (sangria doesn't count!) Although I think I'm still partial to the Union Oyster House in Boston, Fishy Fishy Cafe is definitely some of the best seafood I've ever had! I had the pan fried John Dory over basmati rice with vegetable tempura. I'm not sure what was in the sauce but it was fabulous!

Overall, I really like Cork, but I'm happy I'm spending most of my time in Dublin, lots more to see and learn! Mom we should definitely go to the southwest, to Kinsale or a similar town! The area looks exactly like how I pictured Ireland!